Ironically, a
compelling Beaujolais-Villages is more
difficult to find than a compelling Beaujolais
Cru.
For reasons I do not know, finding a tasty Beaujolais-Villages is like trying to find a French word that does
not contain a vowel.
Well for one
thing, one can write-off finding a Beaujolais-Villages
in the Villié-Morgon because there is no classified Beaujolais-Villages in that
village of Cru .
A story goes that the Villié-Morgon mayor had holdings of Beaujolais-Villages like vineyards when the
appellation limits were drawn.
Mysteriously, all ‘Beaujolais-Villages’ like vineyards were incorporated
into the Cru of Morgon.
Perhaps, a great Beaujolais-Villages is a rare find
because so much of it is cornered by negoce
with depressed prices and poor quality that only a few quality-minded vignerons
are willing to grow vines within that classification. When was the last time
you tasted a Beaujolais-Villages from
a vigneron who gives a shit?
As much as I love
a fine Cru, I often like a wine that
is delicious without requiring too much of my attention - satisfaction over complexity. One such wine for me is ChristophePacalet Beaujolais-Villages.
Christophe
Pacalet Beaujolais-Villages is from
the vines on the lieu-dit ‘Monmont’ on
the foothill between the great Crus of
Régnié and Brouilly. Here one can see
there is a classified Beaujolais-Villages
within the great Crus.
It appears all
great vineyards, including Beaujolais-Villages,
are named. The ‘Monmont’ vines are
over 100 years old, giving elegance so rare in the Beaujolais-Villages. When I tasted the Beaujolais –Villages with Christophe Pacalet at
his chai, I had to ask. It is only when I asked, Christophe Pacalet revealed
the details about the vines and vineyard of his Beaujolais-Villages. His Beaujolais-Villages,
like the vigneron himself, is the
quiet among the attention-grabbing Crus.
Christophe
Pacalet Beaujolais-Villages has the
prettiest colour – ruby luminescence. Pure and balanced. The wine barely hits
12% just about every year. The wine goes with just about any dish: pizza, hamburger, terrine, steak & frites, roasted chicken or grilled salmon. The wine
even tastes better slightly chilled. The wine is cloudy from being unfiltered. Christophe
Pacalet Beaujolais-Villages, for me,
represents all that is great about Beaujolais .
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