I just received
the latest November 2014 issue of The Art of Eating. Ed Behr, the editor and founder, of the
journal writes about wine and food with a refreshing thought. On the opening
page of the editor’s section, he presents how the traditional wines, whose
alcohol levels were low, in the 1930’s were enjoyed in quantities for nutrients
like food. And that rising alcohol levels,
driven by farming tactics and warming climate, are leading to wines that are
difficult to drink, let alone in quantities.
And that has been
my experience as well. Of course, there are exceptions, where wines with 14% or
more alcohol do taste balanced. But
increasingly, I find such exceptions rare. Drinkability and pleasure-ability
came into light recently at our dinner table when my wife and I shared a bottle
of Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf ‘La
Guerrerie’ 2011 – a blend of Côt (aka Malbec) and Gamay. The wine had 11.1% alcohol, tasting perfectly
ripe and balanced. The wine perfectly
described the drinkability that Ed Behr mentions in his article.
By the way, if
you like food and wine, I strongly recommend The Art of Eating. It is an ads-free quarterly journal – an
independent journalism that is rare as the traditionally-well made wines in a
sea of industrial plonk.
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