A Day in Life of Vigneron and Bistro Owner

On a blistering cold evening last year in Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, a Paris bistro, when I was having dinner, a vigneron walked-in.  It must have been past 9 PM.  With him, he carried six bottles of wine.  His eyes were exhausted.  His hunger was apparent.  It looked as though it was the last stop before he headed back home.  The bistro owner greeted him, spoke briefly, and guided him to a table.

As far as I could tell, listening from distance and observing gestures, the vigneron was unknown to the bistro owner.  He gently grabbed and leaned over to the passing-by waitor and spoke to him.  Within minutes, there were a bowl of warming soup, a plate of terrine and some bread on the table.  A plate of duck confit followed.  The bistro owner said something to the vigneron and left temporarily.  The vigneron indeed must have been hungry because the plates of foods were emptied quickly.

About ½ hour later, the bistro owner returned with a plate of cheese and a couple of wine glasses.  The bistro owner and vigneron were now tasting the wines that the vigneron had brought with him.  I can clearly tell the bistro owner was very impressed with the wines.  It was no longer a tasting as the bistro owner was now thoroughly enjoying the wines.

The bistro owner left the table and brought more plates of food.  Now, the vigneron and bistro owner were enjoying the wines with the food.  The bistro owner gestured to the sommelier, who was busy behind the zinc bar, to join.  The conversation ensued and I could sense a friendship bonding.  Their unexpected get together ended with a cup of espresso and sincerest handshake.  The vigneron reached his wallet to pay for the meal.  The bistro owner would have none of it and said in words that I can barely make out from the distance: “I look forward to your wine delivery next week.”

After I finished my meal with a cup of espresso, I stepped outside of the bistro to return to my hotel.  The outside felt much warmer than I had remembered.

Happy Holidays. 

My Kinda Wine List – Less is More

It is hard to describe in words about the artisanal wine and food scene in Paris. The smell, the joie-de-vivre atmosphere, the crowded but inviting zinc bar, and the sense of abundance all add to euphoric experience.  The energy is happy and lively.  When I am at those familiar bistros (such as Le Comptoir, Le Baratin, Les Pipos and among others), who favour artisanal sources of ingredients and wines, I simply surrender to the sommelier.  I always seem to get a bottle or glass of wine that are intriguing and tasty.  I figure the sommeliers spend more time with their wine list than I.  Besides, you don’t have to be a wine export to know if the wine list is conceived from love or fear. You will intuitively know.

My preferred wine lists from my favourite Parisian bistros tend to be thoughtfully small.  The lists are usually on chalk boards.  Often such wine lists have 1 or 2 sparkling, 5-7 reds, and about the same number of whites, and 1 or 2 sweet wines.  That is it! When a wine is sold out, it is simply wiped off the list. Of course, another wine is added immediately.  Eh voila!  No need to fuss over reprinting the wine list.  The wines continually rotate.  So, if you go the same bistro a week later, there will likely be different wines on the list but often from the same artisan.  I like that because it keeps the list lively and changing yet familiar. 

I like the small wine list in such bistros because it tells me the owner or sommelier went the extra mile to weed out the ones she/he does not want and present only the ones she/he wants.  Less is more as it were.  I would rather choose a wine from an exceptional list of a dozen than struggle to find one among dozens of standards.

Below is a super clip from Anthony Bourdain, who on his 100^th episode of No Reservation went back to Paris, where he explores and enjoys the foods and wines in just such bistros.  Oh heck, I even noticed there is a bottle of G. Descombes Brouilly Vieilles Vigne in a scene.  I urge you to try one of the bistros mentioned in the video the next time you are in Paris.  When you are in one of the bistros, you will understand what I meant by “you will intuitively know”.

My Backyard Apple Tree is Pineau D’Aunis!

Joan, my house’s former owner, planted the apple tree in my backyard.  As far as I can tell, the apple is heirloom variety.  The apple does not resemble any other apples that are widely available at grocers. Every year, independent of weather in summer, the apples appear to ripen only after the first frost of the season in Vancouver.  They are truly remarkable and tasty.  Firm in texture, they are juicy, sweet and citrus all at once.  Perfectly balanced!  I look forward to the apples every other year because the tree skips a year of production – somewhat like Pineau D’Aunis as I have been told by Didier Barrouillet of Clos Roche Blanche.  So, not knowing the heirloom varietal of my apple tree, I nicknamed it Pineau D’Aunis.

This year, the tree decided to produce.  BONUS!  In addition to simply eating the apples, they make beautiful apple sauce.  Here is my recipe:

-          6 apples (pealed, cored and sliced)

-          ¼ onion(peeled and sliced thinly)

-          2-3 table spoon of virgin olive oil

-          2-3 table spoon of butter

-          A pinch of cinnamon

-          2-3 table spoon of honey

-          ¼ cup of apple vinegar

-          Salt and pepper to taste

In a pan on a medium high heat, add olive oil and butter together. Add all ingredients, except apple vinegar.  Cook for 5-7 minutes.  Stir often.   Smash roughly with a spoon as apples cook.  Add the vinegar and cook additional 2-3 minutes. 

The apple sauce makes an amazing accompaniment to pork chops, terrines and sausages.  Try spreading the apple sauce over a baguette with slices of prosciutto to balance out the salty cured meat.  Store leftover in a jar and it will last 3-5 days in a fridge. 

Here is a Puy Lentil and Sausage dish.  A natural choice of wine for the dish is Auvergne from Jean Maupertuis.  Puy Lentil comes from Auvergne. And, of couse, Auvergne is a region well known for all types of sausages.  I buy the sausages from Freden (made with hormone free meats and chemical free ingredients) and they are available at Famous Foods.

A Bistro Dish in Comfort of Your Kitchen

If you go to the Paris Bistro like Paul Bert, this dish (pictured below) is on the menu.  It is one of Bistro dishes that I like eating when I visit Paris but, somehow, I don’t remember to cook it at home.  So, when I was reading the blog , I immediately, of course, had to try the dish.  By the way, if you like French foods and wines, I strongly recommend the blog by Wendy Lyn – who is ex-pat from Deep South.  I coincidentally bumped into her at another great Paris bistro Les Pipos during my wine buying trip last autumn.

The dish is easy to make and very satisfying.  The richness of cream is cut by cognac.  As Wendy mentions, please spurge and buy a good quality cognac for this recipe.  Remember to reduce the cream sauce for a few minutes to get the right consistency.  Please remember to flambée the cognac away from your stove fan for safety.  Simply move the frying pan away from the element when igniting the cognac in the pan with a match. Pictured left is my version of the dish.

I buy my meat from Famous Foods, near where I live, because the grocer carries organic and hormone-free meats.  While you are there, you can also pick a bottle of cream from Avalon, which comes organic and in old-fashioned glass bottles.

The dish is very wine-friendly.  I usually drink Beaujolais from Georges Descombes, Christophe Pacalet or Jean Foillard.  Try enjoying the wine cool (1/2 hour in the fridge or 10 minutes in the bucket with ice + water will do).  The cool temperature really accentuates the freshness and perfume of artisanal Beaujolais.  In fact, when I visit the winegrowers, they serve their wines cool straight from the cellars. 

Muscadet and BC Oysters

When autumn leaves start to fall, my foodie thoughts turn to oysters and Muscadet.  For the months that end with ‘R’, the oysters are in season.  They are most plump, juicy, and briny during those months.  Although I enjoy Muscadet from artisans throughout year, I appear to drink them more often during the autumn and winter months.


Of all the great places to purchase oysters, mussels or clams in our province, I often buy them at Lobster Man on Granville Island or you can write to this artisan oyster farmer and ask them the distributor of their treasures.  Shucking oysters takes some practice and, once you get it, you will have the skill for life - sort of riding a bicycle. 

The descriptor ‘artisan’ is an important factor when choosing a Muscadet because less than 5% of Muscadet is farmed organically and harvested by hand (according to Art of Eating Magazine, September 2010 issue).  A tried-and-true tradition that demands dedication.  The rest is industrially farmed with chemicals and machine- harvesters.  By the way, if you are a foodie and wine lover, I strongly recommend the magazine.  There is nothing else like it.

Joe Landron (DomainesLandron) and Marc Ollivier (La Pepiere) are two of a very few artisans remaining in Nantais – the region about 350 km southwest of Paris near the Atlantic coast where Muscadet is produced.  The grape varietal is Melon de Bourgogne.  For me, artisans simply mean organic farming, hand-harvesting, indigenous yeasts, and sur lie (aged on lees) for an extended time.  Extended sur-lie often gives extra roundedness and complexity.  You don’t have to be a wine expert to know the difference between an industrial plonk and artisanal Muscadet.  You’ll instinctively know the moment the wine touches your lips.

I remember the sommelier at the Le Comptoir in Paris when I dined there last autumn.  When asked for a recommendation for raw oysters, he said: “There may be greater wines than Muscadet but there are no greater wines than Muscadet with oysters, mussels or clams”.  The sommelier was humble and did not even mention the value.  His recommendation was the least expensive wine on the list.  Artisanal Muscadets are the greatest value of all French wines, which is just another reason why La Pepiere and Jo Landron Muscadets are my choices of white wines in my house.  

Summer Dishes

Here are a few summer dishes that will brighten your dinner table.

Apricots are in full swing right now.  I buy them at the Trout Lake Market or Kitsilano Market.  Here is my recipe:

- About 20 halved and pitted apricots

 - A few tablespoons of dry white wine

 - A few tablespoons of honey

Heat oven to 400 deg C.  Have a glass of wine while waiting for the oven to heat-up.  Place the halved apricots on a pan.  Sprinkle some white wine and dab some honey over the apricots.  Bake for about 20 minutes. Baste a few times during cooking.  Turn the oven to grill for about 5 minutes. Watch carefully at this grilling stage as it will be quick.  Store the baked apricots in a tight lid glass jar. Serve the baked apricots over yogurt (great breakfast) or ice-cream (great dessert).

No cooking required for these beauties.

Roasted beets:

-  Peel and slice beets about ¼ inch. 

- Dab some good quality olive oil on the sliced beets

- A dash of salt.

Heat oven to 400 deg C.  Have a glass of wine while waiting for the oven to heat-up, of course.  Place the sliced beets, olive oil and salt in a baking pan.  Mix well.  Bake for about 30 minutes. Turn the beets a couple of times with a spoon to evenly roast.  When the edges turn slightly brown, it is ready.  Serve it as a side dish to any meat or fish entree. Or use it as a ‘surprise’ in a Greek salad.

Greek salad accented by some roasted beets

   

Summer Dish and Catherine & Pierre Breton 'Avis de Vin Fort'

One of the best things about summer in Vancouver? - Trout Lake Market on Saturdays.  Actually, better make that three things because there are also Main & Terminal Market on late Wednesday afternoons and Kitslano Market on Sundays.  I usually make it to least one of the market days in a week.  I tend to go wild and buy many things at the market.  I almost always buy zucchinis, tomatoes, garlic, onions and lettuces. If I make to the market early enough and, if there are fresh farm eggs still available, I always buy some of that too.

The best part about the Vancouver summer market is that it makes my dinners so easy.  My wife and I usually have a Greek salad and often have frittatas.  Here is my version:

o       1 clove of thinly sliced garlic

o       A dozen or so thinly sliced zucchini (Marinate with a pinch of salt for about ½ hour.  Drain the excess liquid).

o       A few thinly sliced tomatoes.

o       4 fresh farm eggs, roughly stirred with a fork.  Add a pinch of salt.

o       3-4 table spoon of good quality olive oil.

Preheat oven to 450 F.  Have a glass of wine while waiting for the oven to heat-up.  Heat frying pan to medium. You will need a frying pan that can go from stove to oven (i.e. no plastic or wood handle).  When the pan is ready, add the garlic.  Stir for a minute.  Add the eggs.  Place the sliced zucchini and tomatoes on the top of egg.  Cook for a minute or two. Add a few more drops of olive oil around the edges of the pan and on the top of egg.  Transfer the pan into the oven. Turn the oven to grill.  Check often – ready in about a couple minutes. Eh voila. 

Pick your favourite wine.  Whites work well.  I am currently stuck on Catherine and Pierre Breton Avis de Vin Fort.  The combo is fantastic, especially when dined out doors!  Happy summer! 

The wine is available at Kitslano Wine Cellars (W. 4th Ave & Vine in Vancouver - around $30 per bottle).  If you prefer to dine out, the wine is available at L' Abattoir, Cafe Regalade, and Tableau Bar Bistro.

Where is Auvergne and Who is Jean Maupertuis?

I vividly recall meeting Jean Maupertuis for the first time. It was at his domain – actually more like his house.  His basement is his cellar.  He is a vigneron at peace.  If he were in the pages of Tao Tse Ching, he would be in the phrase that describes: “Those who know, does not speak.”  He is quite and joyous at the same time.

For the last twenty years or so that I have been on this wine journey, I never seen a bottle from Auvergne from France in Vancouver.  I have seen cheeses from Auvergne, but not its wines.  If you were in Paris in a great bistro, like here or here or even in San Francisco, you would come across Jean Maupertuis from Auvergne.  His wines quickly sell out in France and it is impossible to get an allocation.  Sounds silly doesn't it?  Allocated wines from Auvergne?  Wines that barely cost mid twenties in Vancouver?

Auvergne is in the centre of France.  It is located high in elevation. Although it is no more than 100 km from northwest of Lyon, it takes a while to arrive at Auvergne.  You are constantly climbing.  My rental VW had its workout when I visited Jean Maupertuis last autumn.

To me, the wines from Jean Maupertuis are singular.  There is nothing like it.   It tastes like a fine Burgundy with a cracked black pepper.  It is made from the Auvergne Gamay – which is a different strain than the Gamay grown in Beaujolais or Loire.  Also, Jean Maupertuis vineyard is at a high elevation – about 500 meters above the sea level.  Because Auvergne is a geological contrast, where one hill is a risen limestone sea-bed and the adjacent hill is an extinct volcanic hill, the beauty and distinctiveness of wines speak clearly.  Pictured above is from a limestone hill cuvée ‘La Guillaume’.  Jean Maupertuis also makes ‘Les Pierres Noires’, which is just a couple kilometres away from ‘La Guilaume’.  Jean Maupertuis told me that ‘Les Pierres Noires’ is slightly more structured and it reveals its beauty later than ‘La Guillaume’.  By the way, ‘La Guilaume’ clocks in at 12% ALC while  ‘Les Pierres Noires’ weights in at a mind-boggling 11.5% ALC.  The wines taste ripe.  I have to scratch my head every time I enjoy a bottle over a meal.  I simply cannot comprehend how Jean Maupertuis makes perfectly ripe wines at that alcohol level.

To my surprise, I had a call from a French chef in town, who used to own a bistro is Paris and Savoie and now owns a restaurant in town.  He knew about Jean Maupertuis.  Upon ordering and receiving a case, he called to say that he opened a bottle as soon as the case arrived.  Upon tasting, he said: “The memories took me right back to France”.

Clos Roche Blanche Pineau D’Aunis Rosé – Summer!

Vancouver had a sunny day last week!  So, I decided to open a bottle of Clos Roche Blanche 2010 Pineau D’Aunis Rosé.  Clocking in at 12% alcohol, this rosé is quite distinctive.  The wine has a slight peppery taste that keeps the wine unique, tasty and fresh.  The wine is even better out of a fridge for about ½ hour – nicely chilled but not very cold.  It is not so easy to get an allocation of the rosé from Clos Roche Blanche because Catherine and Didier, proprietors, make so little of it.  There is a scant 0.4 hectares (about 1 acre) of Pineau D’Aunis planted at Clos Roche Blanche.  And what little of the rosé there is, the locals grab them quickly.   

“Brian, please reserve early if you would like some rosé”, hinted Catherine when I visited her last autumn.  I am so glad I did.  All of their wines are hand-bottled without filtration to keep all that ‘goodness’ of the wine.  Yes, hand-bottled without filtration to avoid the harshness of pumps associated with a bottling machine.  The wine has a bit of that beautiful cloudy appearance that I often associate with artisanal wines. Since wine is a living product, Catherine and Didier do their best to keep it ‘alive’. 

The family had the rosé with some prosciutto, followed by a grilled salmon.  For a reason I can’t quite explain, I now feel the summer is incomplete without the Clos Roche Blanche Pineau D’Aunis Rosé at our home.


The Pineau D’Aunis Rosé is available at KitsWine (2235 W. 4th Ave; T 604 736 7660 - website under construction). Please phone ahead to make sure there is some left.

An Artisan in Our Own Backyard – Mix the Bakery

Every time I drop by Mix the Bakery, I feel like we have a treasure in our own city.  Although I live across the city, I make a point of dropping by the Mix. Of all the great bakeries in Vancouver, the baguette from the Mix reminds me of the ones from France the most.  The baguette is crusty on the outside and moist & airy inside.  A tub of butter, a loaf of the Mix baguette, plus a glass or two of good wine equal BLISS.   

For all the years that I have been going to the Mix, I never met the baker.  So, I decided to meet the baker during my last visit and asked the staff.  “Rose is the co-owner and baker.  She is at the back”, the staff said as she gestured to the back.  I walked past the ladies of bakers at the back, the trays of resting dough, and the stacks of flour sacks.  I had to pause to take in the fragrance of baking permeating through the air.  The ladies said, “Keep walking.  More.  More.  Rose is in her office. Yes, to the left”.  I walked-in unexpectedly and met my local artisan baker hero.  The beauty of the baguette matches the beauty of the boulangère.

The Mix, in addition to the crusty Parisian baguettes, has a variety of breads, desserts, preserves, sandwiches and soups.  By the way, their preserves are essence of fruits.  And their coffees, made from the La Marzocco machine, are always perfect to my taste.  It is as though every single thing in the shop has been touched by the care and dedication of Rose and her staff.  The next time you want to catch an artisanal moment in our own city, I suggest the Mix.

As I walked out of the Mix, the spring passing rain had turned into a sunny afternoon.  And it is a Friday!  With a loaf of Rose’s bread in my arms, I reached to look at the business card that she had given me.  Her title says, ‘DOUGH GIRL’.



   

Odd & Perfect Couple – Chinon and Salmon

Here is a food and wine combination that I don’t think about too often: Chinon and Salmon.  At first, the combo sounds odd – like a peanut butter & jelly sandwich, sweet & sour soup, or Korean & Mexican taco. Our beautiful local salmons are now in season, starting with the Spring Salmon.

Chinon is an appellation in Loire, about 300 km southwest of Paris.  Chinon is a Cabernet Franc country.   Cabernet Franc is better known as Breton by the locals.  The locals sometime simply call the varietal Cabernet – meaning not Cabernet Sauvignon.  Chinon wears many expressions, all to do with where it is grown, vintage and, of course, the vigneron.  Gererally speaking, Chinon grown on sandy soils gives beautiful, perfumed wines that are meant to be enjoyed in its youth.  Bernard Baudry ‘Les Granges’ (pictured) is such an example. The same Chinon grown in a gravel and/or clay over limestone, will likely give structured wines that will benefit from some cellaring. 

Matthieu Baudry and his father Monsieur Bernard Baudry are seeking finesse and elegance in their wines.  Les Granges is usually no more than 12 to 12.5% alcohol.  The vines are grown in harmony with nature.  The grapes are harvested by hand – a rarity in the region nowadays.  The wine is fermented only using indigenous yeasts in concrete vats and bottled unfiltered in the late spring or early summer the following year.  The 2009 vintage is long sold out.  Matthieu informs me the 2010 Les Granges will be bottled this June.  The wine will be shipped this autumn and will arrive on our shores in October/November. 

The Les Granges 2008, the one I am enjoying now clocks in at 12% alcohol.   You can share a bottle over a dinner and don’t feel the vertigo.  The combination of Chinon Les Granges and our local grilled salmon is CONSCIOUS BLISS.

The Foillard Connection

When I was visiting the vignerons last autumn, happy coincidences kept happening.  I was beginning to believe the universe was conspiring in my favour.  It all started when I was visiting Jean Foillard in Morgon.  As I was visiting a number of vignerons in the region, I decided to stay at the bed and breakfast of Jean Foillard for a couple of days.  By the way, if you love France and wine, not to mention the beautiful villages, I strongly recommend Jean Foillard’s B&B.

 An Autumn Scene Steps from Jean Foillard's Domain

Back to the story…Well, Monsieur Foillard asked if I wanted to join the family for a lunch.  Oui!  In the middle of having a delicious lunch that Madame Foillard prepared for us, Monsieur Foillard stood-up, disappeared and returned with a bottle of white wine, declaring that the meal begs for a glass of white.  There was already a bottle of Côte du Py on the table.  I barely kissed my lips on the Côte du Py that Monsieur Foillard poured for me to taste enjoy.  The bottle of white was no other than Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf Pinot Gris.  Crisp, minerally and delicious.  There were now two glasses of generous pours in front of meal.   BLISS CONSCIOUSNESS!  I chuckled and informed Monsieur Foillard that I will be visiting Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat of Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf in a few days.  A pause, then Monsieur Foillard glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Monsieur Foillard decided to give me some allocation to import. 

 The Entrance to Jean Foillard's Tasting Room. Also Used For Harvesters to Enjoy Meals

Then, I was visiting Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat at their Le Clos du Tue Boeuf.  During a tasting, a sample of Pinot Gris was poured.  The very cuvée that Jean Foillard had poured for me at his domain only a couple of days ago.   I chuckled and told Thierry about the Pinot Gris at Jean Foillard.  A pause, then Thierry glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Thierry decided to give me some allocation to import.

With Thierry Puzelat at Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf Amongst the Vines, Surrounded by Diversity of Forests 

Then, I was visiting Jean Maupertuis.  After a tasting, I followed him to his personal cellar for a tour.  What a cellar! Well, what do I see among the wines?  Jean Foillard’s ‘PI-π’ – a wine only made in certain vintages.  I chuckled and told Jean Maupertuis that I just visited Jean Foillard the day before.  A pause, then Jean Maupertuis glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Jean Maupertuis decided to give me some allocation to import.

Jean Maupertuis among the Vines at Le Guillaume Vineyard (500 m above sea level on limestone)

Then to top it off, I was visiting Noëlla Morantin.  When I arrived at her domain, she had nothing to sell.  All her bottled wines were sold out.  Generously, she had to dip into her personal stash to give me a taste.  A conversation led to many things and Noëlla asked what other vignerons I was visiting.  I told her all the names.  Apparently, Noëlla just returned from Jean Foillard.  I am not certain but I think…

 Noëlla Morantin Pouring Generously in her Beautiful Chai/Cellar

Monk Fish with Preserved Meyer Lemon

My preserved meyer lemon, from the previous post, was made a month ago and is ready to be enjoyed.  With the preserved lemon, I made a monk fish dish.  Monk fish is from the icy waters of Atlantic.  I see the fish every now and then at this great fish monger.

First, I made a mixture consisting of ¼ piece of preserved lemon diced, pinch of shallots, julienned parsley and some olive oil.  The preserved lemon should be salty enough to skip adding more seasoning.  Set aside.  Warm the plates in an oven heated to 150 F.

I cut the fish biased about ¼ thick, placed a couple flat-leaf parsley leaves, and some pepper.  I wrapped the fish with a prosciutto.  The prosciutto was salty enough.  So I skipped seasoning.  Heat the pan hot enough that it is smoking when a few tablespoons of olive oil are added.  Dust the fish with flour.  Two-three minutes of cooking on each side of fish.  Tilt the pan and glaze the fish with hot oil using a spoon.  Plate the fish with some of the preserved lemon mixture.  The family had the dish with a light-bodied red Burgundy from the 2004 vintage.  It was yummy.

Meyer Lemon – the Grand Cru of Lemons

There are lemons and there are meyer lemons.  They are in season in January and February.  To me, meyer lemons are a class by themselves – hauntingly aromatic, sour and yet slightly sweet.  I simply slice them thinly right into salads, with skin and all.  I would like to add meyer lemon rinds into our local tuna tartar dish with say sauce, green onion and a dash of sesame seed oil.  I like the tuna tartar with toasty baguette slices or make it into a cone with nori and rice.  A crisp, minerally Champagne or Vouvray Sparkling or Montagnieu Sparkling (from Bugey near Savoie) would accompany the dish well.

Sometimes, I like to simply finely chop meyer lemon with parsley and shallots.  Add some salt and good quality olive oil.  A few raisons can be added to balance the salt and sour.  Spoon the mixture over grilled or pan fried fish or roasted chicken.

To extend the pleasures of short-lived season of meyer lemons, I like to preserve them.  Simply cut them into halves or quarters, sprinkle about 1 table spoon of kosher salt per lemon, pack them into sterilized jars, and squeeze a few more meyer lemons to top it off. I like to keep the preserved lemons in the refrigerator rather than out in the room temperature.  I think the cool preservation keeps them aromatic and crunchy.  The preserved lemons should be ready to enjoy in about 1 month.

The preserved meyer lemons are, of course, classic in Moroccan cooking.  One of the best books is by Kitty Morse – ‘Cooking at the Kasbah’.  Moroccan dishes are very wine friendly, least to my palette. 

Meyer lemons are available at specialty shops, including this one.

Georges Descombes - Vigneron's Care and Committment

Recently, I came across this video by Aurélia from Quebec.  I don’t believe you need to speak a word of French to understand in this case.

After receiving the reservation confirmation from Georges Descombes for his 7 cuvees (the crus of Brouilly, Chiroubles, Morgon and Régnié, plus the Vieillles Vignes cuvees), I could not sleep a wink.  I am so HAPPPPY!  The wines will be on our shores this spring in April/May. 

I distinctively remember my visit to Georges Descombes.  As I entered his dark-lit, icy cellar and sat down, he poured me a glass from the half-full bottle.  In unison, Mrs. Descombes and Georges genuinely offered: “It was opened yesterday. Please let me know if you would like me to open a new bottle”.  It was Brouilly Vieilles Vignes 2007.  I drew the glass towards me to taste.  Then, silence.  In that instant, something connected.  A mystically mysterious moment that is ephemeral and yet eternal.  It was as though this vigneron’s care and commitment, disguised as wine, were in that glass.  There was no need to open a new bottle.

An Artisanal Oyster Shucking Knife

No self-respecting wine importer, who has two artisanal Muscadet producers on the portfolio, should be without a decent oyster knife.  Oysters, especially raw, are a magnetic match with Muscadet.  Having a pitchet of Joseph Landron Muscadet at Les Pipos in Paris in October 2010 was one of those food conscious bliss moments.  A similar experience happened at Balthazar in November 2008 with a plate of oysters and a bottle of Marc Ollivier’s Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet.  Now, I can have the consciousness bliss experiences at home very soon when the Muscadets arrive in April or May of this year.  I truly believe our BC coasts have world-class oysters.

I have had my share of cuts and bruises from shucking oysters.  Having a bad oyster knife did not help.  My wife and I were strolling through this fine kitchen ware shop and I accidentally came across this oyster knife.   It is about $20.  

I recycled the tag that came with it.  So, I can’t recall the details but if my memory serves me correctly, the oyster knife has been around since the 1920’s.  Painfully recalling the cuts and bruises of the past, and wearing a rather fresh cut from shucking the oysters a couple of days ago, I purchased the oyster knife.  I figured a tool that has been around that long must have its reasons.  The oyster knife feels and looks as though someone put a lot of care and thought into making it.  I get the feeling that it is made by a proud person in the same Massachusetts shop that has been around for awhile.

Well, the oyster knife is simply the best.  It comes in neutral wood and carbon-steel.  It has just enough give (i.e. flexible).  With the carbon blade, you need to wipe it dry after use to keep from rusting.  It is well worth the chore of wiping.  Now I can enjoy a plate of oysters with a glass or two of Muscadet without wearing a band-aid.  A bonus!

The Art of Eating and Muscadet

If you are a foodie and wine lover, I strongly recommend the magazine “The Art of Eating”.  It is issued quarterly.  The magazine feels as though it is from a bygone era. The articles are long and detailed.  There are no one-page or executive summaries.  Oh heck, there are no ads.  The subscribers solely fund the magazine.  The magazine takes a food or wine topic, such as Comte cheese or Muscadet, and takes an in-depth look by going to the source.  I just subscribed the magazine.

I was given a copy of an article of the June 2009 “The Art of Eating” by Joseph Landron when I visited him.  He gave me the copy of the article, along with other documents, so casually that I did not know I had it until I got back home.  The article is written by Jacqueline Friedrich, who is one of my favourite wine writers.  She is an American ex-pat who has been living in Loire Valley since 1989.  In the article, she writes about Joseph Landron Muscadet.  She writes “Muscadet, one of the most exhilarating, food-friendly, and reasonably priced white wines in the world, may be the most underrated.”  She goes on to describe Joseph Landron Mucadet La Fief du Breil: “After being hand-harvested at 3.5 hectoliters per hectare (this is very low yields)…the wine spends 18 months on its lees and is bottled unfiltered.”  Jacqueline continues “The first impression is tactile: simultaneously lush and with a stinging thread of effervescence, characteristics of long aging sur-lie.  The wine revives with its vigour, focus, and utterly dry finish.  Sensations of minerals and every expression of lemon – zest, pulp, plucked-off-the-tree, preserved…”

Jacqueline’s words sum up my tasting experience with Joseph Landron.  I can’t wait till the Joseph Landron Muscadets get to our shores in British Columbia. 

Above is a picture of Monsieur Landron and yours truly, amongst his biodynamically cared Muscadet vines.  Visiting his vineyards with him is just as exhilierating experience as tasting his wines.