Les Caves Auge in Paris

In Paris, an unassuming wine shop in the 8^th Arr. has influence on wine lovers like no other.  The wine shop, like the majority of the vignerons that Auge represents, is simple and humbling that if you are not familiar with Auge, you may skip it without giving it too much thought. The website says in a small font ‘depuis’ (since) 1850 and not much else.

It is a wine shop that is absolutely clear on what it represents.  In terms of philosophy, Auge reminds me of another great wine shop - Chambers Street Wines.  Both wine shops are hugely successful.  


There is greatness and joy about a wine shop that is steered by the focused ideal of owners and not by the broad sense of general consumer.  Least to me, Auge has no interest in pleasing everyone.  If you love wines made by vignerons who give a shit, you will likely love Auge.  Auge is so jam packed with wines that, if it were in BC, a city would close it down by quoting some silly bylaw.  The photo is the inside Auge taken during my last trip.

I can spend hours in Auge.  If you are in Paris, it is a great place to spend some time.  And, say, you are looking for a special wine like Pierre Overnoy from Jura, ask sales staff. He or she may disappear down to a cellar and fetch a bottle for you - provided that you pass the unofficial sales staff's verbal wine test.  Or simply grab a bottle or two that you never heard of, buy a baguette sandwich, and dance down to the banks of Seine with a corkscrew and glasses.  And oh, you can have wine with a baguette sandwich in public places in Paris and not worry about a social disobedience ticket.  If weather is unfriendly, I usually go back to my hotel room – which is just as nice.  

Catherine & Pierre Breton Avis de Vin Fort & Trinch! - Two Wines Separated After Birth

“Brian, if you keep analyzing, I should not sell this wine to you,” Pierre announced quietly.  That was Pierre Breton as I kept re-tasting the Avis de Vin Fort with him at his domain during my initial buying trip. 

Like falling in love, my heart was committed before my mind was.  The wine was nothing like I have ever tasted.  It defied every category.  It was not red; it was not rosé.  Avis de Vin Fort does not want to be categorized or labelled.  "Once you label me; you negate me," as the Danish philosopher Soren Kierkegaard once penned.

Avis de vin Fort has only one purpose: PLEASURE!.  And I think that was Pierre’s point when he made the wise comment to me.  The more one analyzes, the more one gets disconnected from the pleasure of wines.

Avis de Vin Fort macerates for 5 days only.  Typically, most red is macerated for 3 to 4 weeks.  The wine has zero extraction and 100% personality.  Avis de Vin Fort is made from 100% cabernet franc.  So, the wine has a bit of bite.  Despite the fact that the wine is macerated for five days only, it spends about 4-5 months in neutral demi-muids (500 litre barrels). “Cabernet Franc needs some elévage”, Pierre told me. Below is a picture of Avis de Vin Fort (AVF) 2011 in a demi-muid when I visited Pierre and Catherine in January 2012.  The wine weighs in no more than 12% alcohol just about every year.  My family drinks Avis de Vin Fort well chilled and with anything from steak to roast chicken.   

Trinch! is Avis de Vin Fort’s sibling.  Both cuvees are from the same vineyard.  In fact, they both start the life in the same vat.  Except, the Avis de Vin Fort is bled off the vat after 5 days whereas Trinch! carries on with skin contact for additional couple of weeks or so.  Both wines accompany various bistro dishes well.

By the way, Avis de Vin Fort (meaning ‘strong wind warning’) is a play on words.  It is an ancient saying for sailors to take a cover and go to the safety of shore when there is a strong wind warning and drink strong wines.  The wine, of course, is light and refreshing.  Trinch! is a sound that is produced when glasses are clunk together as a gesture of celebration.   

Avis de Vin Fort and Trinch! - two siblings with equally distinctive personality. When I have a dinner party, I sometimes serve the Avis de Vin Fort and Trinch! together.  It always surprises me which bottle empties first.