Catherine et Pierre Breton in l'île d'Yeu

Catherine and Pierre Breton, with their children, have been taking their family vacations on the island of Yeu or, as French would say, l'île d'Yeu. They now opened a wine bar/store La Dilettante Yeu. That is Catherine Breton on the left in front of La Dilettante Yeu. It serves simple delicious local dishes as well as their wines and many other wines that they personally like. You can also purchase wines and take them home with you. How civilized is that?  I can only dream about this kind of place in BC.  Sigh...

Catherine and Pierre Breton simply pack their family and a whole lot of wines and head to the l'île d'Yeu for summers. By the way, La Dilettante Yeu is opened only in July and August. The wine bar/store also serves to anchor this somewhat remote community, where people come to socialize and eat in a relaxed setting. There are jazz sessions in La Dilettante Yeu. The inimitable aesthetics of Catherine and Pierre Breton wines are also translated in their La Dilettante Yeu.  Their beauty is everywhere in La Dilettante Yeu.  So, if you yearn for an island vacation in France after a busy week in Paris, La Dilettante Yeu may be just the thing. 

Mystery of Clos

It is not intentional.  I just noticed two of our vignerons have the word Clos in their domain names: Le Clos du-Tue Boeuf from Thierry and Jean Marie Puzelat and Clos Roche Blanche from Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet.  Well, Noëlla Morantin farms half of Clos Roche Blanche.  So, Noella really belongs to the ‘Clos Club’.   There are no usual Clos in the Le Clos du-Tue Boeuf and Clos Roche Blanche.  The Clos is actually the stunning forest.  There are no neighbouring vineyards.  A huge insurance when you are farming with no pesticides and herbicides.

Then, there is the magnificent ‘Le Clos Guillot’ vineyard in Chinon from Bernard Baudry.  Although when I visited the vineyard with Matthieu Baudry multiple times, I could not see the Clos in ‘Le Clos Guillot’.  I was so mesmerized by the beauty and taste of the wine of the vineyard that I probably forgot to take notes about the historical context of the vineyard. ‘Le Clos Guillot’ is on a hill with a beautiful view. The vineyard has the unique feature of constant winds.  I think Matthieu told me the area of ‘Le Clos Guillot’ was once referred to as ‘Belles Vents’, meaning ‘Beautiful Winds’.  I was there in the early spring and I can almost taste the wind in a bottle of ‘Le Clos Guillot’ in a form of fragrance.  It is a fleeting experience to translate.  Every time I drink a bottle, I am instantly transported to that vineyard, with Matthieu being there, pouring me another glass.

Then, there is the most striking Clos Sénéchal in Bourgueil from Catherine & Pierre Breton.  There is actually the Clos in Clos Sénéchal. For a reason that is difficult for me to explain, Clos Sénéchal has a singular taste like no other.  When I am dead, I want to be buried near Clos Sénéchal.  I love Catherine & Pierre Breton ‘Clos Sénéchal’. Pictured left is Pierre Breton in his car entering the ‘Clos Sénéchal’ when I visited him.  You can see the Clos just the right the rear-view mirror.

Clos, of course, means wall in French.  Some wine texts say that Clos vineyards are the most prized.  Some wine texts say Clos was manually made so as to minimize the exposure of vines from natural elements of weather extremes, thereby leading to healthier vines and grapes.  What ever the case may be, I like to let the mystery be.  I no longer believe in demystifying wines. 

Catherine & Pierre Breton 'La Ritournelle' 2011 Rosé Pétillant

She stood still with summer sun setting behind her silhouette.  One arm over her head and the other leaning against the corner of balcony, she glanced.  The evening breeze swept her linen dress, pressing it against her skin.  The lilac blossoms swayed, charging the surrounding air, engulfing her.  In her bare feet, she approached.  

Well, the above was my original notes for the newsletter for the Catherine & Pierre Breton 'La Ritournelle' 2011Rosé Pétillant.  Perhaps, it is because I met Catherine & Pierre. But for a reason I can't quite put down in words, every time I enjoy a bottle of Catherine & Pierre Breton wine, I am transported to anther world.

Catherine & Pierre Breton Avis de Vin Fort & Trinch! - Two Wines Separated After Birth

“Brian, if you keep analyzing, I should not sell this wine to you,” Pierre announced quietly.  That was Pierre Breton as I kept re-tasting the Avis de Vin Fort with him at his domain during my initial buying trip. 

Like falling in love, my heart was committed before my mind was.  The wine was nothing like I have ever tasted.  It defied every category.  It was not red; it was not rosé.  Avis de Vin Fort does not want to be categorized or labelled.  "Once you label me; you negate me," as the Danish philosopher Soren Kierkegaard once penned.

Avis de vin Fort has only one purpose: PLEASURE!.  And I think that was Pierre’s point when he made the wise comment to me.  The more one analyzes, the more one gets disconnected from the pleasure of wines.

Avis de Vin Fort macerates for 5 days only.  Typically, most red is macerated for 3 to 4 weeks.  The wine has zero extraction and 100% personality.  Avis de Vin Fort is made from 100% cabernet franc.  So, the wine has a bit of bite.  Despite the fact that the wine is macerated for five days only, it spends about 4-5 months in neutral demi-muids (500 litre barrels). “Cabernet Franc needs some elévage”, Pierre told me. Below is a picture of Avis de Vin Fort (AVF) 2011 in a demi-muid when I visited Pierre and Catherine in January 2012.  The wine weighs in no more than 12% alcohol just about every year.  My family drinks Avis de Vin Fort well chilled and with anything from steak to roast chicken.   

Trinch! is Avis de Vin Fort’s sibling.  Both cuvees are from the same vineyard.  In fact, they both start the life in the same vat.  Except, the Avis de Vin Fort is bled off the vat after 5 days whereas Trinch! carries on with skin contact for additional couple of weeks or so.  Both wines accompany various bistro dishes well.

By the way, Avis de Vin Fort (meaning ‘strong wind warning’) is a play on words.  It is an ancient saying for sailors to take a cover and go to the safety of shore when there is a strong wind warning and drink strong wines.  The wine, of course, is light and refreshing.  Trinch! is a sound that is produced when glasses are clunk together as a gesture of celebration.   

Avis de Vin Fort and Trinch! - two siblings with equally distinctive personality. When I have a dinner party, I sometimes serve the Avis de Vin Fort and Trinch! together.  It always surprises me which bottle empties first. 

Summer Dish and Catherine & Pierre Breton 'Avis de Vin Fort'

One of the best things about summer in Vancouver? - Trout Lake Market on Saturdays.  Actually, better make that three things because there are also Main & Terminal Market on late Wednesday afternoons and Kitslano Market on Sundays.  I usually make it to least one of the market days in a week.  I tend to go wild and buy many things at the market.  I almost always buy zucchinis, tomatoes, garlic, onions and lettuces. If I make to the market early enough and, if there are fresh farm eggs still available, I always buy some of that too.

The best part about the Vancouver summer market is that it makes my dinners so easy.  My wife and I usually have a Greek salad and often have frittatas.  Here is my version:

o       1 clove of thinly sliced garlic

o       A dozen or so thinly sliced zucchini (Marinate with a pinch of salt for about ½ hour.  Drain the excess liquid).

o       A few thinly sliced tomatoes.

o       4 fresh farm eggs, roughly stirred with a fork.  Add a pinch of salt.

o       3-4 table spoon of good quality olive oil.

Preheat oven to 450 F.  Have a glass of wine while waiting for the oven to heat-up.  Heat frying pan to medium. You will need a frying pan that can go from stove to oven (i.e. no plastic or wood handle).  When the pan is ready, add the garlic.  Stir for a minute.  Add the eggs.  Place the sliced zucchini and tomatoes on the top of egg.  Cook for a minute or two. Add a few more drops of olive oil around the edges of the pan and on the top of egg.  Transfer the pan into the oven. Turn the oven to grill.  Check often – ready in about a couple minutes. Eh voila. 

Pick your favourite wine.  Whites work well.  I am currently stuck on Catherine and Pierre Breton Avis de Vin Fort.  The combo is fantastic, especially when dined out doors!  Happy summer! 

The wine is available at Kitslano Wine Cellars (W. 4th Ave & Vine in Vancouver - around $30 per bottle).  If you prefer to dine out, the wine is available at L' Abattoir, Cafe Regalade, and Tableau Bar Bistro.