Concrete Vats – Pure Perfection

I see concrete vats in the cellars of the vignerons whom I respect and whose wines I love. Matthieu and his father Bernard Baudry have concrete vats in their chai; Thierry Puzelat and his brother Jean-Marie have them; and Jean Maupertuis has them, too. There is something supremely pure about fermenting and aging wine in concrete vats. They are neutral. They do not take away or add anything. The thermal inertia of concrete vats is enormous. Thus, allowing the wines at a steady temperature. Concrete vats breath. The wines that see concrete vats are not as 'square' as, say. from those wines that see stainless steel vats.

There is wonderment of energy and purity about the wines that see concrete vats. I especially like wines that spend their time in the traditional concrete vats. Jean Maupertuis, for example, has concrete vats that are probably made before WWII. Jean Maupertuis himself does not know when his concrete vats were made.  The picture above is Jean Maupertuis in front of his concrete vat. Oh heck, Jean Maupertuis' vats are not even ergonomic. When I visited him in the tiny village of Saint-Georges-sur-Allier in Auvergne, he chuckled as he was explaining the concrete vats in his cellar.  The draining sprouts are located about a couple feet above the bottom of the vats rather than at the bottom.  So, he has to take a bucket and scoop out the remaining juice after fermentation.  Despite the extra labour and hassle, Jean Maupertuis keeps the concrete vats for a reason.  I can taste the freshness and purity that is rare in wines.

Mystery of Clos

It is not intentional.  I just noticed two of our vignerons have the word Clos in their domain names: Le Clos du-Tue Boeuf from Thierry and Jean Marie Puzelat and Clos Roche Blanche from Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet.  Well, Noëlla Morantin farms half of Clos Roche Blanche.  So, Noella really belongs to the ‘Clos Club’.   There are no usual Clos in the Le Clos du-Tue Boeuf and Clos Roche Blanche.  The Clos is actually the stunning forest.  There are no neighbouring vineyards.  A huge insurance when you are farming with no pesticides and herbicides.

Then, there is the magnificent ‘Le Clos Guillot’ vineyard in Chinon from Bernard Baudry.  Although when I visited the vineyard with Matthieu Baudry multiple times, I could not see the Clos in ‘Le Clos Guillot’.  I was so mesmerized by the beauty and taste of the wine of the vineyard that I probably forgot to take notes about the historical context of the vineyard. ‘Le Clos Guillot’ is on a hill with a beautiful view. The vineyard has the unique feature of constant winds.  I think Matthieu told me the area of ‘Le Clos Guillot’ was once referred to as ‘Belles Vents’, meaning ‘Beautiful Winds’.  I was there in the early spring and I can almost taste the wind in a bottle of ‘Le Clos Guillot’ in a form of fragrance.  It is a fleeting experience to translate.  Every time I drink a bottle, I am instantly transported to that vineyard, with Matthieu being there, pouring me another glass.

Then, there is the most striking Clos Sénéchal in Bourgueil from Catherine & Pierre Breton.  There is actually the Clos in Clos Sénéchal. For a reason that is difficult for me to explain, Clos Sénéchal has a singular taste like no other.  When I am dead, I want to be buried near Clos Sénéchal.  I love Catherine & Pierre Breton ‘Clos Sénéchal’. Pictured left is Pierre Breton in his car entering the ‘Clos Sénéchal’ when I visited him.  You can see the Clos just the right the rear-view mirror.

Clos, of course, means wall in French.  Some wine texts say that Clos vineyards are the most prized.  Some wine texts say Clos was manually made so as to minimize the exposure of vines from natural elements of weather extremes, thereby leading to healthier vines and grapes.  What ever the case may be, I like to let the mystery be.  I no longer believe in demystifying wines. 

Bourgueil & Chinon – Introvert Personalities of Cabernet Franc

I remember Andre at my high school.  He sat at the back of the Grade 12 Physics classroom.  Although I sat next to him, he hardly spoke a word throughout that semester.  Andre sat quietly at the back of classroom and aced all exams.  It took quite a bit of time to get to know Andre.  Looking back, I understood Andre once I listened to him rather than listening to my own judgement about him.

When I drink one of the cuvées from Catherine and Pierre Breton Bourgueils or Bernard Baudry Chinons, I am transported to the time of understanding Andre. Both Bourgueils and Chinons are made from 100% Cabernet Franc.  It has a strong and silent personality.  

“Cabernet Franc needs élevage”, said Pierre Breton when I visited him this January.  Pierre likes Bourgueils and Chinons with all meats but he likes them particularly with all games, such as ducks and pheasants.  With minimal fruit and scratch tannins wrapped in minerals, the initiation to Bourgueils and Chinons can be not-so-easy going.  Bourgueil and Chinon want time and introspection.  Once one understands Bourgueil and Chinon, it is a lifetime of love.

Odd & Perfect Couple – Chinon and Salmon

Here is a food and wine combination that I don’t think about too often: Chinon and Salmon.  At first, the combo sounds odd – like a peanut butter & jelly sandwich, sweet & sour soup, or Korean & Mexican taco. Our beautiful local salmons are now in season, starting with the Spring Salmon.

Chinon is an appellation in Loire, about 300 km southwest of Paris.  Chinon is a Cabernet Franc country.   Cabernet Franc is better known as Breton by the locals.  The locals sometime simply call the varietal Cabernet – meaning not Cabernet Sauvignon.  Chinon wears many expressions, all to do with where it is grown, vintage and, of course, the vigneron.  Gererally speaking, Chinon grown on sandy soils gives beautiful, perfumed wines that are meant to be enjoyed in its youth.  Bernard Baudry ‘Les Granges’ (pictured) is such an example. The same Chinon grown in a gravel and/or clay over limestone, will likely give structured wines that will benefit from some cellaring. 

Matthieu Baudry and his father Monsieur Bernard Baudry are seeking finesse and elegance in their wines.  Les Granges is usually no more than 12 to 12.5% alcohol.  The vines are grown in harmony with nature.  The grapes are harvested by hand – a rarity in the region nowadays.  The wine is fermented only using indigenous yeasts in concrete vats and bottled unfiltered in the late spring or early summer the following year.  The 2009 vintage is long sold out.  Matthieu informs me the 2010 Les Granges will be bottled this June.  The wine will be shipped this autumn and will arrive on our shores in October/November. 

The Les Granges 2008, the one I am enjoying now clocks in at 12% alcohol.   You can share a bottle over a dinner and don’t feel the vertigo.  The combination of Chinon Les Granges and our local grilled salmon is CONSCIOUS BLISS.