Concrete Vats – Pure Perfection

I see concrete vats in the cellars of the vignerons whom I respect and whose wines I love. Matthieu and his father Bernard Baudry have concrete vats in their chai; Thierry Puzelat and his brother Jean-Marie have them; and Jean Maupertuis has them, too. There is something supremely pure about fermenting and aging wine in concrete vats. They are neutral. They do not take away or add anything. The thermal inertia of concrete vats is enormous. Thus, allowing the wines at a steady temperature. Concrete vats breath. The wines that see concrete vats are not as 'square' as, say. from those wines that see stainless steel vats.

There is wonderment of energy and purity about the wines that see concrete vats. I especially like wines that spend their time in the traditional concrete vats. Jean Maupertuis, for example, has concrete vats that are probably made before WWII. Jean Maupertuis himself does not know when his concrete vats were made.  The picture above is Jean Maupertuis in front of his concrete vat. Oh heck, Jean Maupertuis' vats are not even ergonomic. When I visited him in the tiny village of Saint-Georges-sur-Allier in Auvergne, he chuckled as he was explaining the concrete vats in his cellar.  The draining sprouts are located about a couple feet above the bottom of the vats rather than at the bottom.  So, he has to take a bucket and scoop out the remaining juice after fermentation.  Despite the extra labour and hassle, Jean Maupertuis keeps the concrete vats for a reason.  I can taste the freshness and purity that is rare in wines.

Jean Maupertuis in Auvergne et Boudin Noir

A great Boudin Noir, to me, as strange as it sounds, is like a young punk singer in a black Chanel dress: f***-you-attitude inside barely contained by a proper outside casing.

Boudin Noir, of course, is a peasant French food. Boudin Noir is made with humblest of ingredients – essentially remains of pork and blood.  If necessity is mother of invention, then Boudin Noir fits the bill. I can only imagine a farmer, who first created Boudin Noir. Looking at the remains of a sacrificed pig for winter, the farmer thinks: “Well, there are some fat, blood and intestines left. Eh voila!”

There are only two types of Boudin Noir: Great and Shitty. There is no middle ground. The shitty one should be thrown out immediately. The great ones have a balanced flavour and silken texture with crispy outer layer from pan-frying in butter.  In France, some fried apples and generous portions of green salad are served often with Boudin Noir to cut its richness.  When I visited Jean Maupertuis in Auvergne, that is exactly what he and his wife made generously for me.

In Paris, whenever I see Boudin Noir on a menu, I order the dish – provided that I trust the restaurant. L’Avant Comtoir in Paris has a bite-size Boudin Noir between a macaron with a sweet-pepper jelly.  It goes down like a praise with a chilled glass of Beaujolais or Loire. Le Verre Volé in Paris often has Boudin Noir on the chalkboard menu. The last time I was at the restaurant, a fellow Canadian from Quebec ordered the humble dish. We struck instant friendship over the dish.  It is like we struck some kind of a secret code of great French bistro foods.

And Know the Wine for the First Time

“We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.”

T.S Eliot

  

After twenty five years of enjoying wines, I ended where I started.  I distinctively remember walking into the 39^th and Cambie BCLDB Store and intuitively asking Steven, the product consultant at the time, if he would recommend an honest traditional Chianti.  That was twenty five years ago.  Steven took me down to the aisle and pointed the wine. 

I trusted Steven.  I remember buying six bottles and opening one on the same day.  The necks of bottles were all at different levels.  Years later, I would learn the wine was probably hand-bottled – a sure sign when the neck levels are different on young wines.  I opened a bottle and stuck in the refrigerator for a half hour before I had the wine with a simple meat pasta dish.  The bottle was all gone quickly.  Well, the remaining bottles were finished within the same week.  When I returned to the store to buy some more, the wine had sold out.  I wish I took some notes or a picture of the wine.  I simply cannot recall the wine.

After my initial years of enjoying wines in my terms, like the Chianti, I bought and read a bunch of wine publications.  Then, I started buying and drinking wines in someone else’s terms.  So, It seems, the truth about wine can only be discovered when I am only true to myself.  So, my exploration of wine has arrived where I started and know the truth of wine for the first time.

Gamay – Celebrations at Dinner Tables

Recently, I had the pleasure to meet a sommelier from Quebec.  She was staying for a few months in our town.  She has worked a few harvests in France with the vignerons whom I respect.  While enjoying a few bottles of wines with her and other friends over a dinner, she blurted out: “Gamay is my favourite.  It accompanies foods so well.”  She went on to say: “Gamay creates an ambiance at a dinner table that no other wines can.” Those are meaningful words that are difficult to describe in words.

With her declaration, I noticed that every bottle on the dinner table was Gamay or a Gamay blend: Noella Morantin ‘Mon Cher’, Puzelat-Bonhomme ‘Le Tel Quel’, Clos duTue-Boeuf ‘La Butte’, Christophe Pacalet ‘Fleurie’, Jean Maupertuis ‘Les PierreNoires’, and Jean Foillard ‘Morgon Cuvee Corcelette’.   Unconsciously, I had brought-up all Gamay and Gamay blends from the cellar for the dinner.

My love for Gamay and Gamay blends know no bounds. Gamay grown in the volcanic hills of Beaujolais and its 10 crus are generally fuller than the Gamay grown on the limestone hills of Loire. Gamay, made with care, has butt-naked exuberance and deliciousness that no other wines can match.  And the prices are so reasonable.

Perhaps, it is the butt-naked exuberance that is translated to the ambiance at dinner tables.  Such ambiance is palpable at my favourite neighbourhood restaurants in Paris: La Nouvelle de Marie, Le Comptoir, Bistro Paul Bert, Le Bratin and Les Pipos.  All restaurants have numerous Gamay and Gamay blends.  Once you experienced such an exuberance evening at one of the restaurants, that joie de vivre will stay with you a lifetime.  Our great local restaurants (L'Abattoir, Pied-A-Terre, Tableau Bar Bistro, La Regalade, Wildebeest and The Acorn - just to name a few) now also carry Gamay and/or Gamay blends from great producers.  

There are more profound wines from other appellations in France, but I cannot think of another varietal that speaks so joyously at a dinner table than Gamay.  Every time my family has a bottle of Beaujolais, Auvergne or Loire Gamay over a meal, I swear there is a hole in my wine glass.  It is empty every time I look at it.

A Match Made in Heaven – Our Local Salmon & Loire Reds

Every year, I look forward to spring for many reasons.  One of which is our local spring salmon.  This is one of my favourite ways to cook spring salmon (serves two):

-          2 fillets of spring salmon with skin and ping bones removed.

-          1 TBS of grainy mustard

-          1 TBS of honey

-          1 TBS of finely diced shallots or green onion

-          1 TBS of chopped Italian parsley.

-          2 TBS of fresh squeezed lemon (about ½ of lemon)

-          Salt & pepper to taste.

-          5-6 TBS of olive oil.

Heat oven to 450 F.  You will need a 8 to10 inch pan that can go from the stove to oven (i.e. a pan with a metal handle). 

Mix the mustard, honey, shallots/green onion, parsley, and lemon and stir to make a sauce.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Set aside.  Use quality salt.  I buy grey sea salt, dry it out on a tray, and crush the salt in a mortar.

Salt and pepper the fillets both sides.  Heat the skillet pan to almost high.  Add the oil.  The oil should be smoking in the pan.  Tilting the pan to slide the oil to the bottom of pan and away from you.  Add the pieces of salmon, fillet side down (i.e. boned side down for presentation purposes only).  Cook for about 2 minutes until the fillets have a good brown crust.   Flip the fillets and cook for about a minute.  Spoon the sauce over the top of the salmon.  The dripping sauce over the fillets and onto the pan will spatter.  Transfer the pan into the preheated oven. Cook for about 2-3 minutes.

Buttered jasmine rice, spring potatoes or rice pilaf is a great side dish.

All light reds from cooler climate work well.  Beaujolais from a balanced year, such as 2008 and 2010 works well.  Auvergne Gamay grown on mountains, such as 'La Guillaume' or 'Les Pierre Noires' from Jean Maupertuis are also a superb match with the salmon.  Cheverny Rouge, which is a mixture of Pinot Noir and Gamay (in Burgundy, the equal version is ‘Passetoutgrain’) is ravishing. 

For me though, pure Gamay from Loire is a match made in heaven with our salmon dishes.  La Butte (100% Gamay) from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf from the family domain of Thierry andJean-Marie Puzelat is awesome with the salmon dish.  La Butte, like all Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat’s wines, has intentional residual carbon dioxide – which occurs naturally during wine making process.  The carbon dioxide keeps the wine ALIVE and vibrant.  You can decant it, if you prefer, and the ‘pearly’ taste of carbon dioxide will be gone in about 10 minutes.  Thierry Puzelat serves his reds straight from the bottle with the ‘pearly’ feel intact and straight from his cellar at 10-12 C deg.  If you don’t have a cellar, placing the bottle in the fridge for about 30- 40 minutes or 10 minutes in a Champagne bucket with ice & water will do.  The cool temperature really brings out the freshness and perfume of the light reds.

My Backyard Apple Tree is Pineau D’Aunis!

Joan, my house’s former owner, planted the apple tree in my backyard.  As far as I can tell, the apple is heirloom variety.  The apple does not resemble any other apples that are widely available at grocers. Every year, independent of weather in summer, the apples appear to ripen only after the first frost of the season in Vancouver.  They are truly remarkable and tasty.  Firm in texture, they are juicy, sweet and citrus all at once.  Perfectly balanced!  I look forward to the apples every other year because the tree skips a year of production – somewhat like Pineau D’Aunis as I have been told by Didier Barrouillet of Clos Roche Blanche.  So, not knowing the heirloom varietal of my apple tree, I nicknamed it Pineau D’Aunis.

This year, the tree decided to produce.  BONUS!  In addition to simply eating the apples, they make beautiful apple sauce.  Here is my recipe:

-          6 apples (pealed, cored and sliced)

-          ¼ onion(peeled and sliced thinly)

-          2-3 table spoon of virgin olive oil

-          2-3 table spoon of butter

-          A pinch of cinnamon

-          2-3 table spoon of honey

-          ¼ cup of apple vinegar

-          Salt and pepper to taste

In a pan on a medium high heat, add olive oil and butter together. Add all ingredients, except apple vinegar.  Cook for 5-7 minutes.  Stir often.   Smash roughly with a spoon as apples cook.  Add the vinegar and cook additional 2-3 minutes. 

The apple sauce makes an amazing accompaniment to pork chops, terrines and sausages.  Try spreading the apple sauce over a baguette with slices of prosciutto to balance out the salty cured meat.  Store leftover in a jar and it will last 3-5 days in a fridge. 

Here is a Puy Lentil and Sausage dish.  A natural choice of wine for the dish is Auvergne from Jean Maupertuis.  Puy Lentil comes from Auvergne. And, of couse, Auvergne is a region well known for all types of sausages.  I buy the sausages from Freden (made with hormone free meats and chemical free ingredients) and they are available at Famous Foods.

Where is Auvergne and Who is Jean Maupertuis?

I vividly recall meeting Jean Maupertuis for the first time. It was at his domain – actually more like his house.  His basement is his cellar.  He is a vigneron at peace.  If he were in the pages of Tao Tse Ching, he would be in the phrase that describes: “Those who know, does not speak.”  He is quite and joyous at the same time.

For the last twenty years or so that I have been on this wine journey, I never seen a bottle from Auvergne from France in Vancouver.  I have seen cheeses from Auvergne, but not its wines.  If you were in Paris in a great bistro, like here or here or even in San Francisco, you would come across Jean Maupertuis from Auvergne.  His wines quickly sell out in France and it is impossible to get an allocation.  Sounds silly doesn't it?  Allocated wines from Auvergne?  Wines that barely cost mid twenties in Vancouver?

Auvergne is in the centre of France.  It is located high in elevation. Although it is no more than 100 km from northwest of Lyon, it takes a while to arrive at Auvergne.  You are constantly climbing.  My rental VW had its workout when I visited Jean Maupertuis last autumn.

To me, the wines from Jean Maupertuis are singular.  There is nothing like it.   It tastes like a fine Burgundy with a cracked black pepper.  It is made from the Auvergne Gamay – which is a different strain than the Gamay grown in Beaujolais or Loire.  Also, Jean Maupertuis vineyard is at a high elevation – about 500 meters above the sea level.  Because Auvergne is a geological contrast, where one hill is a risen limestone sea-bed and the adjacent hill is an extinct volcanic hill, the beauty and distinctiveness of wines speak clearly.  Pictured above is from a limestone hill cuvée ‘La Guillaume’.  Jean Maupertuis also makes ‘Les Pierres Noires’, which is just a couple kilometres away from ‘La Guilaume’.  Jean Maupertuis told me that ‘Les Pierres Noires’ is slightly more structured and it reveals its beauty later than ‘La Guillaume’.  By the way, ‘La Guilaume’ clocks in at 12% ALC while  ‘Les Pierres Noires’ weights in at a mind-boggling 11.5% ALC.  The wines taste ripe.  I have to scratch my head every time I enjoy a bottle over a meal.  I simply cannot comprehend how Jean Maupertuis makes perfectly ripe wines at that alcohol level.

To my surprise, I had a call from a French chef in town, who used to own a bistro is Paris and Savoie and now owns a restaurant in town.  He knew about Jean Maupertuis.  Upon ordering and receiving a case, he called to say that he opened a bottle as soon as the case arrived.  Upon tasting, he said: “The memories took me right back to France”.

The Foillard Connection

When I was visiting the vignerons last autumn, happy coincidences kept happening.  I was beginning to believe the universe was conspiring in my favour.  It all started when I was visiting Jean Foillard in Morgon.  As I was visiting a number of vignerons in the region, I decided to stay at the bed and breakfast of Jean Foillard for a couple of days.  By the way, if you love France and wine, not to mention the beautiful villages, I strongly recommend Jean Foillard’s B&B.

 An Autumn Scene Steps from Jean Foillard's Domain

Back to the story…Well, Monsieur Foillard asked if I wanted to join the family for a lunch.  Oui!  In the middle of having a delicious lunch that Madame Foillard prepared for us, Monsieur Foillard stood-up, disappeared and returned with a bottle of white wine, declaring that the meal begs for a glass of white.  There was already a bottle of Côte du Py on the table.  I barely kissed my lips on the Côte du Py that Monsieur Foillard poured for me to taste enjoy.  The bottle of white was no other than Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf Pinot Gris.  Crisp, minerally and delicious.  There were now two glasses of generous pours in front of meal.   BLISS CONSCIOUSNESS!  I chuckled and informed Monsieur Foillard that I will be visiting Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat of Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf in a few days.  A pause, then Monsieur Foillard glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Monsieur Foillard decided to give me some allocation to import. 

 The Entrance to Jean Foillard's Tasting Room. Also Used For Harvesters to Enjoy Meals

Then, I was visiting Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat at their Le Clos du Tue Boeuf.  During a tasting, a sample of Pinot Gris was poured.  The very cuvée that Jean Foillard had poured for me at his domain only a couple of days ago.   I chuckled and told Thierry about the Pinot Gris at Jean Foillard.  A pause, then Thierry glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Thierry decided to give me some allocation to import.

With Thierry Puzelat at Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf Amongst the Vines, Surrounded by Diversity of Forests 

Then, I was visiting Jean Maupertuis.  After a tasting, I followed him to his personal cellar for a tour.  What a cellar! Well, what do I see among the wines?  Jean Foillard’s ‘PI-π’ – a wine only made in certain vintages.  I chuckled and told Jean Maupertuis that I just visited Jean Foillard the day before.  A pause, then Jean Maupertuis glanced at me in a different light.  I am not certain but I think that was the moment when Jean Maupertuis decided to give me some allocation to import.

Jean Maupertuis among the Vines at Le Guillaume Vineyard (500 m above sea level on limestone)

Then to top it off, I was visiting Noëlla Morantin.  When I arrived at her domain, she had nothing to sell.  All her bottled wines were sold out.  Generously, she had to dip into her personal stash to give me a taste.  A conversation led to many things and Noëlla asked what other vignerons I was visiting.  I told her all the names.  Apparently, Noëlla just returned from Jean Foillard.  I am not certain but I think…

 Noëlla Morantin Pouring Generously in her Beautiful Chai/Cellar